Basic Operating Instructions:
Taking Care of Your Skin
Different people and different skin types need to do different things
for their skin. We have an old expression in dermatology that still
rings true: “If it’s dry, wet it; if it’s wet, dry it.” In recent decades,
another truism has been added: “If it’s fair, shield it; if it’s dark,
you’re probably very fortunate.” That’s because your melanin pro-
tects you from skin cancers, wrinkling, and keeps you looking
young.
If your skin is fair, if you burn easily, or if you have a personal or
family history of skin cancer, you should protect yourself from the
sun by wearing hats and caps, using sunscreens, and avoiding
going to tanning parlors. If your skin is dark, you may have other
reasons to protect it from the sun (see Chapter 12 where I talk
about the dark spots that occur in dark skin). People with dark
complexioned or Asian skin may have other reasons to be very
sensitive and prone to irritation and possibly less tolerant of many
of the topical medications that are used to treat acne.
The ultimate operating instruction: Whether you have dry, regular,
or oily skin, a big acne breakout or smooth sailing on the pimple
front, there’s something that’ll keep your face looking its best and
most attractive to the rest of the world and is guaranteed to help
you make friends and influence people. I suggest that you simply
exercise your muscles of facial expression — and smile!
Washing your face
Rocket science? Maybe not. But as a dermatologist, I have a few
reasons for walking you through a little face-washing tutorial. First,
I often begin my instructions for applying medications in later
chapters with phrases like “Wash your skin . . .” or “To a clean, dry
face, apply . . .” so, it seemed to make sense that I fill you in on the
details. The second reason for this bit of Face Washing 101 is even
simpler — many people screw it up. But don’t worry: I’m here to
help. And, if you’re like many folks, my face-washing routine can
simplify your mornings and evenings and save you some cash.
These days, society as a whole is really into soap — the cleaner the
better! As little kids, we’re told to scrub, scrub, scrub with plenty of
soap and water. As teenagers, we use more soap — to fight acne and
oily skin. As adults, we tend to follow the same routines even though
our skin has changed. And the range of different types of soaps
available is mind boggling — super-fatted, deodorant, rejuvenating,
oatmeal, avocado, citrus, aloe vera, sandalwood, wintergreen, pep-
permint, patchouli, and vitamin E to name a few.
Many types of cleansers are also available. Some exfoliate as they
clean, and the medicated ones generally contain benzoyl peroxide
or salicylic acid in various concentrations. Overcleansing with
these products can be irritating. More often than not, these items
will only dry out and irritate your skin, particularly if you’re already
applying a topical anti-acne medication (see Chapters 7 and 9).
Washing excessively — more than twice a day — with any soap
(regular soaps, acne soaps, antibacterial soaps, soaps with abra-
sives, or even gentle soaps) has little positive impact on your acne.
In fact, if you have acne, your skin may be red and inflamed, and
frequent washing only makes it redder.
Washing your face with a mild soap just twice a day is the best tactic,
regardless of your skin type or acne activity. I recommend the follow-
ing soaps and cleansers, depending on your skin type. These tried-
and-true recommendations may not sound as exciting as a Provencal
honey-lavender soap with grape seeds, but they flat out work:
Oily skin: Ivory soap
Dry skin: Dove soap
Extra-sensitive skin or allergic reaction to soaps: Nonsoap
cleanser such as Cetaphil, Aquanil, or Neutrogena Extra
Gentle Cleanser
At the risk of sounding like a parent — with the whole “wash
behind your ears” thing — now that you have your soap, here’s
how to use it:
1. Get the soap wet, using lukewarm water.
2. Using your fingertips or a soft washcloth, apply the soap
to your skin and rub it gently into your skin using a cir-
cular motion. Don’t use loofah sponges, brushes, or sand-
paper please.
3. Splash your face with lukewarm water until the soap is
completely gone. Expect to rinse your face for just a few
seconds — perhaps as long as it would take to sing “Happy
Birthday.”
4. Pat — don’t rub — your skin until it’s dry. Use a soft
cotton towel.
And that’s it!
Dealing with dry skin
If you have overly dry skin (known as xerosis in the medical world),
it’s probably more of a problem for you when the weather is cold and
the humidity is low. This occurs most often in the winter months in
northern climates. In Western societies, our modern lifestyles also
emphasize overbathing, which only serves to worsen the dryness.
On top of that, we often live and work in overheated spaces.
If your skin is dry, keep it moist by using only mild soaps or soap
substitutes as I recommend in the preceding section. You could also
consider moving to a more humid climate — think rain forest. If
you’re already using a mild soap (and assuming a move to the
Amazon is out of the question), apply moisturizers regularly, partic-
ularly when your skin is still damp (check out the “Giving your skin a
drink!” sidebar in this chapter to find out why). Finding the right
moisturizer for your skin may involve trial and error. Look for those
that are labeled as noncomedogenic. I happen to recommend Oil of
Olay, but many other excellent products are available. Go ahead and
use a moisturizer that contains a sunscreen if you think you need
one. You can also use room humidifiers to help hydrate your skin.
If you have acne and dry skin, you probably know that acne treat-
ments can make your dry skin worse. Using moisturizers over your
topical acne medicine can make these symptoms more tolerable. If
you wear makeup, you can apply it over the moisturizer.
Some common recommendations for dry skin are of questionable
or no value, including the following:
Ingesting copious amounts of water
Taking lots of vitamins
These “remedies” won’t hurt you, but don’t look to them to cure
your dry skin. Instead, treat your acne and dry skin with TLC and
the gentlest of cleansing methods.
If your skin gets flaky and scaly, that doesn’t mean that you have
wrinkles. In fact, several of the topical treatments that I cover in
Chapter 9 can cause your skin to look dry and scaly as a side effect,
but some of these medications can actually prevent wrinkles.
Coping with an oil glut
If you have excessively oily skin, that’s due to your sebaceous
glands producing more sebum (the acne-related oil that I discuss
in detail in Chapter 3) than you’d like them to. This is often the
case if you also happen to have acne. But for now, here are some
tips on caring for your oily skin:
Be happy that you’ll save a few bucks on not buying
moisturizers.
Be happier because your skin will tend to stay more wrinkle-
free and younger looking!
Be even happier because your skin will tend to be less sensitive!
But you probably want some more concrete tips, so here you go:
Even though your skin’s oily, don’t irritate it. Washing your
face twice a day should be enough. I realize that you may have
been told to wash 77 times a day with strong abrasive soaps,
but that will only irritate your skin and make it redder — and
if you have acne, all that scrubbing will only make it look
worse! For advice on exactly how to wash your skin, check
out “How to wash your face.”
If parts of your face feel oily during the day, the oil can be
wiped away with a mild alcohol-and-water astringent such as
Neutrogena Clear Pore Oil-Controlling Astringent, Noxzema
Triple Clean Astringent, or Clean & Clear Advanced Acne Pads.
For the wealth of information visit
http://acnecareinfo.blogspot.com
http://wwww.acnenaturalremedies.com
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